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Château Rouquette
August 2007 : 2005 Bottled and 2007 in Vineyard
The 2005 in Bottles –at Last!
Normally we prefer to bottle during cold weather, so bottling in August is a first for us. We had been waiting since January to see if the wine would clear naturally, so that filtration would not be necessary. The Cuvé Merigot, our limited production Merlot, was no problem, but the turbity in the Rouquette remained stubbornly too high. In July it partially cleared so we decided to do a very light filtration. At a record 14° degrees of alcohol the wine could be a potential biological time bomb, with risk of later deterioration in bottle, if not fully cleared.
The
mornings this year have been Autumnally cool and we bottled in perfect
conditions. We had fined the wine with egg white but, as usual, have not added
metatartric acid. This is widely used to prevent formation of tiny tartrate
crystals in the bottle at a later date, which some consumers don’t like
although they are harmless. Like sediment, we regard this as a natural part of
the wine and prefer not to add chemicals unless essential. In fact, a 1998
report by the French Ministry of Health suggested that the use of metatartric
acid should be restricted due to the lack of research into possible side
effects. However, it is widely used – like filtration. Expect some sediment,
including tiny crystals, to develop over time in our wine – it is part of a
natural process and harmless, although it requires a bit of care when pouring!
A bottle of the 2005 opened a few days ago showed no “bottle shock”, which can develop up to 6 months after bottling. On the contrary, the wine was delicious although still tannic. We reduced the new oak to 40%, from the 50% used in previous vintages, and the oak is much better integrated and not as predominant as it could be in previous vintages early in their development. There is a wonderful length and complexity to the wine, yet at the same time an elegance despite the high alcohol, which fully justifies the vintages’ much hyped reputation.
Summer Arrives at Last – News in the Vineyard
Our last newsletter mentioned the extremely difficult conditions in the vineyard this year, due to the relentless rain and high humidity. Anyone who missed a treatment has been punished by mildew and a large number of vineyards are rumoured to have lost much of their crop.
In July we did
our annual survey of the size of the crop this year. We have been doing this for
9 years so have gradually got more accurate in our predictions. We decided we
had too
many
grapes and decided to cut a third of the bunches on some of our plots. Although
we prefer not to do this, it does help mature the bunches that are left and
allows better circulation of air which reduces the risk of rot. This allows us
too pick later.
The
grapes are well into the véraison,
when they change colour. The rule of thumb is that harvest is 50 days after mid-
véraison
: which takes us to around 20th September to start picking, which is
when we started last year. Summer seems to have arrived at last, with dry
weather for the last fortnight. Good weather through to the harvest could make
this a classic, good vintage. A feature of this year has been that in places,
the Cabernet started to change colour at the same time as the Merlot. Normally
there is about a week’s difference. This suggests that this year the harvest
will be fast if the Cabernet and Merlot mature at the same time.
At a time when everything seems limited: the speed we can drive, the amount we can drink, even what we can say, it was refreshing to come across this quotation recently by the Bishop of Seville: "I have enjoyed great health at a great age because everyday since I can remember I have consumed a bottle of wine except when I have not felt well. Then I have consumed two bottles." Consume wine in moderation!
Michael Banton
11th August 2007